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June 6, 2011

May 30, 2011

“They are dead; but they live in each Patriot’s breast,
And their names are engraven on honor’s bright crest.”

Vya: A Great Vermouth

I really hate it when I discover a product that is significantly better than my old standard. Mostly because, in my experience, the new and better is always more expensive than the old and staid and comfortable. And this stuff is no different, so don’t get excited about the possibility Read more »

Arctic Char: Better than Salmon

I will cheerfully admit that I am bored with salmon. Oh, climb down off your pedestal and stop being critical; I have probably eaten more of the stuff than you. Remember, I lived in Northern California for too many years, and salmon is, or at least used to be plentiful, Read more »

Homemade Or Commercial Stock? You Shouldn’t Even Ask!

I used chicken stock to help liquefy a marinade that I made, and I mentioned it to Tommy, of the justifiably famous tommy:eats. He commented that he has become more inclined to move away from commercial stock, in part because of his taste tests Read more »

December 25, 2010

The Hatchery — Ludlow, Vermont

How many breakfast joints serve real Vermont maple syrup with their pancakes and French Toast — and tell you not to use your cellular phone? Well, we found one, and it was great. So great, in fact, that we had breakfast (late) or lunch (early) for four straight days. Why only four days? Well, we had to leave Read more »

December 7th, 2010

An Interesting Brined Duck Recipe

This recipe was just sent to me by one of my many few readers. I haven’t tried it yet, but it looks good, and a bit different. This is a rustic style that is very well suited to the bold flavors of duck.

PETIT SALÉ DE CANETTE

Brine-Cured Duck with French Green Lentils Read more »

Risotto: The Conventional Wisdom Is Wrong

One of the reasons why risotto is surprisingly expensive — sometimes the most expensive dish on the menu — is that it is quite labor-intensive. Most classic recipes require constant stirring for about 20-30 minutes, and that costs restaurants lots of money. Read more »



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